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Whenever compiling a list of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar high-end names. But, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a respected gastronomic guide. This honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest shop securing such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this establishment definitely delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at luxury establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.